5 Steps to Easily Soundproof an Interior Door

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Last updated: April 2, 2021 at 15:59 pm

Learning to soundproof a door may sound a tedious process, but it really isn’t. Proper planning or a professional can easily help you create a soundproof door. Despite windows, doors are famous for letting sound leak in and out in any event, when they’re shut.

In this article:

We’ll go through details such as solid vs hollow door, blocking the gap underneath the door, and using soundproof insulating material such as Green Glue.

5 Ways to Soundproof an Internal Door

Ensure you check if the door is wood or hollow. Generally, hollow doors are harder to soundproof compared to the solid core doors. However, you can likewise soundproof hollow doors with some extra effort.

The following methods are five steps you can take to soundproof an apartment door;

Step 1. Seal the Gaps

The cheapest first step is to seal it as tight as possible. Replace old worn-out seals. The sounds passing through the door are not the main problem, but the sound passing around the door. Indeed, even a little space can pass much more sound than the entire door open. Thus, the initial step ought to be to seal the edge of the door. Adjust the hinges to ensure the tightest seal possible.

● You can fit quality border acoustic seals to every one of the four sides including a retractable seal at the base.

● A cheaper but less effective solution is ‘batwing’ seals to three sides and a flexible door sweep to the bottom of the door.

● Use mounting foam or professional putty to fill up the gaps. Drill in a couple of little holes in one side of the door (they can be close to the edges or even at the edges). You could spray some insulating expanding foam into the door. But, you’d have to begin low on the door, let it expand and solidify, then add more from another foot or two up.

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Most likely, you’ll also get a better fill if you can use a longer tube than is usually supplied to get more foam in the center of the door. The idea is to have it filled up as completely as possible. After drying, treat the seams and the remaining holes with a professional caulking gun. The lock mechanism should be removed, as this would provide a much larger potential viewing, foam-addition, and knobs. Hence prevent you from gumming up the lock.

The sealing method within the door wouldn’t be visible or add any significant weight. Thus, as long as you don’t make a mess the method would be undetectable when its time to leave.

Step 2. Add a Door Gasket

Glue the door gasket around the doorway perimeter to improve the soundproofing of the door. Self-adhesive tapes, rubber, and other adjustable gaskets can serve as door gaskets. Place it between the door and the frame along with the header and jambs.

Select the correct thickness to guarantee a tight opening and shutting of the door. Ensure that the lock is closed easily.

Step 3. Install a Door Sweep

Door sweeps allow you to close any gaps at the bottom of the door. Better sound insulation and sealing of the door can be achieved with the door sweep. They close the gaps between the base of the door and the floor. The door sweeps also help to prevent drafts and various sounds in the room.

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Step 4. Weather-Stripping

The largest opening in most walls is a doorway. One of the best approaches to prevent noise from moving from one room to the next is to introduce (and weather-strip) strong acoustic doors. Something you can get done without much stress, something you can occur whether you’re remodeling or building.

This will also protect your home/flat from unnecessary noise from outside. It helps to seal doors’ edges from noise, odors, and atmospheric influences. Remove the old stripping using a spatula. Then insert the desired length into the door frame.

A self-adhesive strip of rubber or any other alternative material should be attached where the leaf meets the frame. Ensure the door completely opens with no efforts and closes with no efforts. This is going to help a lot with voices and footsteps.

Despite, door slamming will still transit through the walls which can’t be eliminated. Be prepared to discover that a significant part of the noise is coming through the walls. Build structures even after dealing with the door.

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Step 5. Replace the Door (if Hollow)

The easiest way to avoid unnecessary noise is to replace the door with noise control doors and enclosure. They are only set up to suit customer’s necessities utilizing designed acoustic wall and roof panels, doors and windows.

Changing the door to a thicker solid door would be a major improvement. Most interior doors are of hollow core construction. They are very ineffective at blocking sound. Solid-core doors are generally more expensive, but they are also available in a much broader selection of elegant styles.

Remember to always pick a solid core front door with high noise insulation characteristics. You could try asking to get the door replaced or if you’re willing to pay.

Also, you could ask for permission to have it replaced with a similar designed solid door.


MDF (medium density fiber) or solid wood doors are preferable over hollow doors because they create a better sound barrier around doors. Ensure you include closed-cell foam tape or weather stripping around door frames.

In case you’re on a limited budget, peel-and-stick soundproofing material on a hollow-core door will increase its sound dampening capacity to some degree. It’s made particularly for doors and it comes in door-sized sheets. Whatever your decision, ensure you have a cozy fitting base door seal set up, as well.

Make sure it incorporates the space underneath it, which must be sealed by threshold or automatic door bottom. You can drop as low as 22dB by leaving about 1/2″ open at the base of an 84″ door, which you’d perceive as 1/4 as loud. Upgrade to acoustical soundproof glass doors or install sound dampening drapes, if you have sliding glass patio doors.

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About the Author: AJ

Hi, my name's AJ! I write about living a quieter life, soundproofing tips and recommending the best quiet products here on Quiet Living.